Bike theft is a crime of opportunity because it requires absolutely no preparation. You can't compare that to an amateur bike thief who simply has to walk up, hop on a bike, and ride away. If you've gone through the planning to have jacks, various sockets, impact wrenches and a means to quickly load up and leave with the rims you're already preparing enough that you will have a few thin wall sockets to pound onto wheel locks. It's a laughable fallacy brought to you by the same people trying to sell you wheel locks. There's no such thing as an "amateur" rim thief. I can sit for a while with my impact before some of the nuts decide to come off, not a good sign, probably over torqued by 100-200%. I never have a problem removing the nuts on any car I've installed wheels on, whether it's my own, my GF's or a friend's can't say the same when one of the cars comes back from the shop with say new tires or after maintenance/inspection. Thank God today most cars have acorn type capped-closed nuts so rust is generally not a problem. to the threads as the added lubrication will provide much higher torque values than on dry threads !!! I repeat what I've said: the threads must be clean, rust free and in good condition, if not the lug nut(s) and/or lug(s) should be replaced to obtain proper torque values. That's why in the owner's manual it says to have the torque rechecked ASAP, makes sense.Īlso never use oil, grease, locktite, graphite, etc. on the other hand, if the driver is a strong & muscular person, over torqueing is quite possible (not my case!). In theory, the relatively short wrench that comes with the emergency jack provides the approximate recommended torque if used by an average person like me.But if the driver is a person with limited physical force he or she will generally call for help, call AAA, etc. There is a fear among a lot of people about wheels falling off the car if not super tight. Using a thin wall socket allows for the tight clearance between the aluminium wheel and the lug nut, thanks for reminding me as I forgot about that detail. Hope this helps you and a bunch of others for next time! Or else tighten everything by hand like I do as my impact has no torque limit adjustment.jut variable speed so I only use it to remove the nuts. I'm surprised your dealer gave you this freebie unless they're the one to blame for the problem in the first place and they felt guilty.How many times I've seen mechanics not necessarily at dealers, tightening the nuts in a circular motion with an impact gun, this is a no-no! Tightening in a criss cross fashion with an impact adjusted at half the recommended torque would be acceptable, then hand tightening with a torque wrench is best. I don't remember the exact size perhaps 17MM? This could damage the socket and the lock but hey, no pain no gain! I've read on another forum (Subaru I believe) years ago that a twelve point deep socket could be hammered in then the nut could be removed with a ratchet or other tool. Not too many people do this including shops! The locking nuts are not as strong as the regular ones due to their design. Of course don't over torque and make sure threads are clean, no rust or else use a wire brush. Rule #1 and that's printed on the owner's card that comes with the locking lug nuts made by McGard: always tighten locking lug nuts last and always remove them first.
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